The models I photographed-Naomi, Linda, Cindy, Christy, and Tatjana-ushered in a new era. So, I created the memorable style of cover that has been adopted as one of the iconic images of the 1990s: young models without makeup, wearing simple clothing-white shirts. It was time to question that stereotype and move towards a kind of beauty more linked to the personality of the woman rather than the status symbol. I felt that it was important for fashion photography to change its style. Then, when Anna Wintour became the new editor-in-chief of Vogue and asked me to create the first covers, I spied an opening. PL: It was an Olympus scattered with limousines and perfect, beautiful women walking down 5th Avenue with their dogs. MVB: What did that stereotype look like, and what changed? In retrospect, saying, “No” to Alexander Liberman was a somewhat daring choice, but I didn’t care because the stereotype of women that fashion perpetuated was not interesting to me. Peter Lindbergh: American Vogue kept calling and asking me to work with them, but I always refused. Maria Vittoria Baravelli: How did you get into the world of fashion? Harper’s Bazaar © Peter Lindbergh (Courtesy of Peter Lindbergh, Paris / Gagosian Gallery)Ĭurator and writer Maria Vittoria Baravelli met with Lindbergh in Italy for a conversation about his early years as a photographer, the changing landscape of fashion photography, and why he doesn’t miss the darkroom.
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